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This is 'the last great wilderness in southern England', a National Park. It is amazingly-shaped rock tors, purpleheather, yellow windswept grass, golden gorse and umber bracken. Rushing rivers pour from the moorland down dramatic wooded valleys towards the sea. It's a natural playground, marvellous for walking, riding, off-road cycling, picnicking and kite-flying and, if you want, not seeing other people. Just off the moor's edge, amid the woods, valleys and farmed hills, are pretty villages and lively small towns.