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A peninsula of exceptionally beautiful coves with sandy beaches and picture-book perfect fishing villages where fresh crab and lobster are still landed by small fleets of boats and old Cornish sea shanties are sung in the inns. The very lovely, wide Helford River is the epitome of Daphne du Maurier's lush, wooded-creek Cornwall. In its flat middle is the emptiness of Goonhilly Downs heathland nature reserve. There are cliffs of course, to which the rare chough has returned to nest, and a lighthouse at England's most southermost point.