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Between the River Tamar and River Fowey and south of Bodmin Moor is inland Cornwall at its most gentle and lovely: deep wooded valleys between sheep and cattle-grazed fields leading to tidal creeks. On the coast are long sandy beaches, high headlands and sandy coves at the foot of cliffs. Here are two of Cornwall's loveliest cove villages, Kingsand and Cawsand, and a classic fishing village (Polperro). This is Daphne du Maurier country, where she lived and wrote. A branch line railway chugs pleasantly from Liskeard to Looe. Just to the west is Cornwall's star modern attraction, The Eden Project, worth a once-a-year visit. The Tamar is great for 'messing about in boats', from canoes to river cruisers.